Zaiqa

It snowed here very heavily this year on Eid-ul-Adha, and I thought it would be best to cook a warming and nourishing brunch for the next day in the morning. My father in law recalled his good old times while we were having Nihari as our breakfast. He recollected that when he was a school going kid, his father would ask him to get up very early if he would like to join him for a breakfast of Nihari at Shehran Hotel, beside Charminar in Hyderabad. He also added he always loved the Nihari at Shahran and devoured it and still remembers the scrumptious taste. Always so many memories associated with food.

Some of the traditional dishes prepared by muslims just after Qurbani on Eid-ul-Adha are Nihari, Maghaz Masala, Organ meat and various kinds of the red meat preparations from the Qurbani ka gosht.

Nihari, also sometimes referred to as Nahari or Sir-e-Paaya (plural is Sir-e-paaye) (sir means head and paaya means legs), is a rich broth, made out the bones and meat of a sheep or lamb’s cheek and head bones and the tongue meat and shanks. It has a special mention in the must-taste list of travelers visiting the city around Eid. In Hyderabad, after the Qurbani, my father would take the sheep’s head and feet to the butcher for further preparations so that we could prepare Nihari. The butcher used to roast the ‘whole head with skin and hairs on’ (sir) and the legs (paaya) in open fire to kill all the disease-causing agents if present, and to burn the hairs, and roast the skin to intensify its flavors. The butcher would then scrape off the burnt hairs, discard the waste parts and whack them all up into small pieces. The meat from the sheep’s cheeks is substantial and most tender and delectable. Its tongue takes a longer time to get cooked, but is a delicacy. The butchers here in Toronto do sell the head and legs of the sheep, but with the skin removed. The real taste of the Nihari is due to the fire roasted skin which is not available here, so I really enjoy the true Nihari whenever I visit my parents in Hyderabad.

Nihari prepared using fire-roasted lamb trotters and head pieces with skin

Nihari is prepared by boiling or slow cooking the sheep bones and meat along with a range of ambrosial spices and herbs. Earlier, people used to slow cook it on coal in large pots the whole night long, until the broth was thick and flavorsome by morning ready for the breakfast, the the bones so soft you can literally chew them. Today, women use pressure cookers to save time.

The Hyderabadi Potli ka Masala or bouquet garni for Nihari contains a mixture of around 20 or more aromatic herbs and exotic spices which are tied in a muslin cloth and tossed into the saucepan to infuse wonderful flavors and a beautiful fragrance into the boiling broth. The Potli ka Masala contains but is not limited to spices such as:

1. Coriander seeds  (Dhaniya)
2. Bayleaf  (Tej Patta)
3. Sandalwood powder (Sandal ka powder)
4. Stone Flowers (Pathar ka Phool)
5. Star Anise (Dagad Phool)
6. Dried Rose Petals (Sukhe Gulab ke Phool)
7. Roots of the Betel plant  (Paan ki jad)
8. Black Peppercorns (Sabut Kali Mirch)
9. Chinese Cubeb (Kawabchini)
10. Spiked Ginger Lily (Kapoor Kachri)
11. Black Cardamom (Badi Elaichi)
12. Salt (Namak)
13. Garam Masala
14. Cinnamon sticks (Dalchini)
15. Fennel seeds (Saunf)
16. Cloves (Laung)
17. Mace
18. Cumin seeds (Zeera)
19. Roasted Chana Dal (Phula Chana)
20. Dried Vetevier roots (Khas ki Jad)

Ready made Potli Ka Masala from a store in Hyderabad,
containing various aromatic dried herbs and spices

You do not have to go searching for all these herbs to make your own Potli ka Masala. It is available ready made at many specialty stores in Hyderabad, especially in the Old city, a 25 gm potli ka masala costs around 10 Indian Rupees per packet. This Potli ka Masala or Nihari masala is also easily available in Indian grocery stores. I do not recommend buying the ‘Nihari powder’ from the market, instead go for the one that also contains the whole spices. Use any of the brands that you get your hands on. In the ready made Potli Ka Masala packets available in the markets, there is again a small packet inside called as the Nihari Masala powder, which consists of the powdered masala  used in the second stage in the cooking process for Nihari.
What I do is, whenever I visit Hyderabad, I buy many packets from Hyderabad and get them with me here, so that they last me a long time, and freeze them to store and use whenever fancied.

Almost every household in Hyderabad prepares Nihari as breakfast or brunch at the second or third day of Eid. Nihari is enjoyed by sousing soft and warm Kulcha or Naan or Paratha, or by dunking in crusty breads into the highly flavored and nourishing broth containing all the goodness.

Nihari, prepared using deskinned lamb trotters,
served along with warm Parathas in the Hot-Pot

Nihari is always prepared out the head bones, tongue & cheek meat and the shanks or trotters of a lamb or a sheep. The traditional Nihari is never prepared of boneless lamb meat or chicken. However people add the same Nihari masala to chicken and boneless meat broths to simulate the dish in other simpler forms.

Sir-e-Paaye ki Nihari – Aromatic Slurpy Broth of Lamb Shanks and Cheek Meat

Ingredients:

4 legs and a head of a sheep – cleaned (and fire roasted if using the trotters with skin), and whacked into pieces + a sheep’s Tongue/Zabaan – cleaned (or) Lamb Shoulder meat with bone cut into big chunks – 1 kg
Potli ka Masala – half the quantity in a 25 gm packet
Red onion (or) Yellow Onion – 1, large, roughly chopped
Cornflour/Gram flour – 3/4 cup, mixed with a small amount of water to make a smooth paste
Red chilli powder – 2 tsp
Salt – 2 1/4 tsp
Turmeric/Haldi – 1/4 tsp
Small green chillies – 6, each slit into half

For Tempering, Baghaar:

Canola oil – 2 tbsp
Yellow onion – 1, large, finely sliced
Ginger garlic paste – 1 1/2 tsp

For Garnish:

Cilantro – 1/2 cup, finely chopped
Ginger juliennes – 2 tsp
Lemon wedges – 1 cup
Saffron threads – a pinch
Lemon juice – 1/3 cup

Method:

1. Wash the sheep’s head bones, tongue and trotters or the shoulder meat in surplus water. Put them in a strainer for the water to drain away. Meanwhile, in a pressure cooker, add the roughly chopped red onion, the washed bones, tongue and trotters or the shoulder meat from the strainer and pour in 1.5 liter of water, red chilli powder and green chillies. Make a bouquet garni of the required amount of potli ka masala (not the powdered masala from the small packet, read about it above). Add this bouquet garni along with salt and turmeric and close the lid to pressure cook until the meat is tender. Later, open the lid and add corn/gram flour paste. Half cover the lid and let it slow cook for 15 minutes more. The broth is ready. Cover with lid and keep aside
2. During that time, prepare the baghaar. Take a medium sized non-stick frying pan at medium high heat and pour oil into it. Throw in the sliced onions, and stir fry them until they are golden brown in colour. Now add the ginger garlic paste to the fried onions and fry it along for about 2 minutes more stirring continously. Remove the pan from heat and keep aside.
3. Just before you are ready to serve it to everyone, add half the quantity of the nihari masala powder from the small packet of the store brought potli ka masala, and the baghaar to the broth in the pressure cooker and bring to a boil. Lift out the bouquet garni and squeeze it thoroughly. Discard it later. Let it cook half covered for 15 more minutes. Close the heat and pour the Nihari into a large serving bowl. Add lemon juice, saffron threads and ginger juliennes. Serve the lemon wedges in a separate small cup if anyone wishes for an extra zing. Enjoy!

Suggested Accompaniments: Enjoy Nihari along with warm Parathas or Naan for a sumptuous breakfast.

Luv,
Mona

Maghaz in Arabic language means ‘Brain’ in English, and ‘Bheja‘ in Urdu language. Maghaz masala is one of my favorite dishes only next to Nihari that I look forward to after every Qurbani. Eid-ul-Adha is a time when Muslims pray for forgiveness from God and pray for an increased strength in faith by refreshing the sprit of sacrifice for virtue and rectitude.

Just after the Qurbani on Eid-Ul-Adha, also called as Bakri Eid, muslims around the world, feast on red meat dishes, ranging from Biryanis, Nihari and many other kinds of its meat and organ meat preperations. Among them, Maghaz masala is one of the famous organ meat preperations, usually had as breakfast on Eid-ul-Adha after the Qurbani, which is easy to cook and most delicious. you will relish the excuisite and creamy flavor of the dish along with the sweet caramelized onions and spicy green chillies and fresh aromatic herbs.

This dish is also called as Bheja fry in some places in Hyderabad.

Maghaz/Brain Masala:

Ingredients

Sheep’s brain – 2
Canola oil – 2 to 3 tbsp
Yellow Onion – 1, large, finely sliced
Ginger garlic paste – 1 1/2 tsp
Red chilli powder – 1 tsp
Turmeric – 1/4 tsp
Green chillies – 4, finely chopped
Salt – to taste
Roasted coriander seeds powder – 1/2 tsp
Cilantro – 2 tbsp, finely chopped
Lemon juice – 2 to 3 tsp

Method:

• Bring about a litre of water to boil. Close the heat and dip the whole brains into the hot water for about 2-3 minutes. Remove the brains from the water gently using a slotted spoon, and throw away the water. Wear gloves, carefully remove the membrane adhering to the brain and as many nerves as possible. You can also ask your butcher to do this. Once the brain is clean (it wont matter if a few nerves are till attached to the brain), cut it into bite size pieces. Keep aside.
• Pour oil into a medium sized non-stick frying pan and as soon as it gets warm, add the sliced onions and salt and fry them on a medium high, with a careful eye so thet you do not burn them, until they are golden brown in color.
• Lower the heat to medium low and add ginger-garlic paste, turmeric, coriander seed powder and green chillies, red chilli powder. Stir fry till a nice aroma comes, for about a minute or so, then add the cubed brain pieces and gently mix well. Add about half cup of water and mix it all gently with a rubber spatula. Cover the pan with a lid and let cook for around 5 minutes.
• Remove the lid, stir fry for a minute more, until no water is left and it is mostly dry and well cooked. Serve onto a platter and garnish with cilantro, and sprinkle with lemon juice. Enjoy it warm.

Suggested Accompaniments: Enjoy Maghaz masala along with some warm parathas for a delicious breakfast.

Consuming sheep’s brain might be a taboo food to some people, but for those of you willing to experiment and try out new victuals, do try it out. I am sure you will enjoy this mellow and delicate Hyderabadi dish.

Cheers,
Mona

The Haramasala walah (herb vendor) used to come by our house back in Hyderabad at around 10 a.m everyday. His loud, long and rhythemic shout..

“Kothmir, Pudina, Harimirch, Methi, Palak, Kulfa.. lelo”  (Buy fresh green herbs for cooking)

.. announcing whatever he carried on his bicycle that day, in small gunny bags to keep them fresh in the morning heat for his regular customers, used to bring me hurrying up to the gate.

I admit I miss these kind of venders here. They would have a boon in the kind of busy lives we are living. Imagine the kind of convenience they would have offered! You would atleast not have to worry for the supply for daily fresh fruits and green herbs in your diet. Aloo Methi Gosht reminds me of this Haramasala walah selling a range of fresh herbs and greens at my doorstep at a cut-price.

Aloo Methi Gosht – Potatoes,Meat and fresh Fenugreek leaves curry

The recipe is quite simple, and most loved in my family. Here it goes:

Aloo Methi Gosht – Potatoes, Meat and fresh Fenugreek leaves curry

Ingredients:

• Canola oil – 2 tbsp
• Red Onion – 1, large
• Meat – 250 gms
• Red chilli powder – 1 1/2 tsp
• Salt – 2 tsp
• Potatoes – 6, medium sized
• Tomato – 1, large
• Methi – 1 cup

Method:

• Add oil in the cooker. Once warm, add onions, meat and red chilli powder, salt. Let cook for about 5 mins on medium heat. Later, add water, close the lid and pressure cook until the meat is very tender.
• In the same pressure cooker with stock and meat, add tomatoes, diced potatoes and give it a stir. Pressure cook again for about 6-8 minutes or until the potatoes are just done.
• Add the chopped methi and let cook for about 5 more minutes.

Suggested Accompaniments: Tomato chutney and warm Rice or Rotis.

Luv,
Mona

I am immensely happy to update all my readers that my blog has been mentioned in The Telegraph article. This is the first time my blog has been mentioned in any newspaper. However, there is a spelling mistake regarding the title of my blog in that article. When contacted the author said she will not be able to rectify it now.. Regardless, I am immensely elated and joyous. I thank everyone for your support and appreciation.

Yesterday, we witnessed the first glimpse of flurries for this season of winter. I love winter, the use of layers of warm clothes, oceans of lotions, the lovely snowfall, the sparkly sunshine when the rays fall on the snow spead everywhere.. but there are also things that I dont like about winter, like the really short days with the dark setting in by as early as four in the evening, or the immense difficulty in leaving the warm and cozy blanket to get up and get ready in the morning, watery eyes, runny noses, boring darkness, dangerously slippery side walks and the wearisome task of scraping ice after every snowfall.. Nevertheless Canadian winter is a beauty in itself for the tourists (..and just for the first few weeks for the residents here after which we all get irked, fed up..)

After a day of work in these long, chilly and wintry days, one craves for comfort Indian food prepared fresh and ready to enjoy along with a few warm rotis. One such dish that I love is this preperation of Tuvar dal which I had learnt from my aunt.

Tuvar ki dal served along with warm rotis and Sukhi Arvi

Dals are an essential part of an Indian diet. They are prepared in various ways, dry, thin or saucy in consistency, and relished as either a side dish or used to wet rice. They serve as excellent protein sources. Tuvar dal is a little sweeter in comparision to other dals and mostly widely used. It is my favorite dal.

The following Tuvar dal preperation is a regular item in my house. It tastes absolutely yummy along with a vegetable side dish and rotis as a comforting meal for the soul.

Tuvar ki Dal – Yellow Lentils currry

Ingredients:

• Tuvar dal – 1 cup
• Water – to soak and cook
• Canola oil – 2 tsp
• Curry leaves – about 10
• Cumin seeds/Zeera – 1/2 tsp
• Canned tomato paste – 3 tbsp
• Red chilli powder – 1 1/2 tsp
• Salt – to taste

Method:

• Soak the dal in surplus water for about 6 hours. Later drain the dal and wash it well prior to cooking.
• Put the washed dal in a tall saucepan along with about 2 cups water and salt and let it cook on medium until the dal is soft but retains its shape. You can add a little water if needed for the dal to cook.
• Meanwhile, in a frying pan, pour oil and as soon as it warms up, add the cumin seeds and curry leaves. Add tomato paste, red chilli powder and let it cook for 2-4 minutes on medium heat. Dump it all into the saucepan with the cooked tuvar dal. Add a little more water for all the ingredients to get properly mixed together. Let cook for about 5 more minutes. Serve warm.

Suggested Accompaniments: Warm rotis and a vegetarian or non-vegetarian side dish.

Takecare and Keep warm!

Luv,
Mona

‘Baghare Baingan’ (in Urdu) when translated into english language means ‘Tempered Eggplants’. Baghaar or tempering is an Indian process of flavoring the oil with spices which is used in the preperation of a curry to impart added taste and aroma.

Aubergines, Peanuts and a large sized Onion (One of the Aubergines has an ‘X’ shaped incision at its base)

This is a lovely and delicious brinjal side dish, a hallmark and peculiar to the state of Hyderabad, usually seen being served at Daawat – weddings, parties and large gatherings. It is generally had as a side dish along with Biryanis or some people even enjoy it along with a Roti/Paratha.

Baghare Baingan – Tempered Aubergines in a rich Sauce

The eggplants are cooked twice, once they are shallow fried and then later simmered in a fragrant sweet and spicy sauce of sauteed onions and roasted spices. The tamarind imparts a tangy kick to the sauce consisting of roasted nutty and buttery peanuts, poppy seeds and coconut, a range of aromatic spices and caramelized onions.

Only Indian eggplants that are small, shiny deep purple and fresh are used for this curry. These are easily available at many Indian stores. Brinjal/Eggplant/Aubergines or Baingan are not a favorite of many people, but I suggest you all try this dish once and you will definitely love it. It is one of the best aubergine dishes I have ever had.

The procedure to prepare Mirchi Ka Salan or Tamatar ka Salan is also almost the same as this curry. Also, you can also add any firm fish fillets (Red snapper, Haddock, Cod, etc) to the gravy instead of brinjal to make it a fish curry/Machli ka Salan; or halved tomatoes to the gravy to make it Tamatar ka Salan. There is no difference, except for the fact that in Mirchi ka Salan, green chillies are used; in tomato curry, tomatoes are used; in fish curry, fish fillets are used; and in this curry, the brinjals are used.

Baghare Baingan – Tempered Aubergines in a Spicy Nutty Tangy Sauce
Cooking time: around 45 minutes; Serves: 6

Ingredients:

Eggplants/Baingan – 6-8, indian variety~small sized, fresh, and deep purple in colour
For dry masala paste:
Khus Khus/White Poppy seeds – 1 tbsp
Till/Sesame Seeds – 1/2 cup/50 gms
Peanuts/Groundnuts/MoomPhalli – 1/2 cup/50 gms
Dry Desiccated Coconut – 3/4 cup/50 gms
Coriander seeds/Dhania – 1 tsp
Cumin seeds/ Zeera – 1 1/2 tsp
For baghaar/tempering:
Cumin seeds/ Zeera – 1 tsp
Curry leaves/ Kariyapaak – 2 sprigs
Mustard seeds/ Rai – 1/2 tsp
Nigella seeds/ Kalaunji – 1/3 tsp
Fenugreek seeds/ Methi dana – 1/8 tsp
For gravy:
Canola oil
Yellow Onions – 4, large, sliced slightly thick into semi circular rings
Ginger garlic paste – 2 tsp
Salt – 1 tbsp
Red Chilli Powder – 2 tsp
Turmeric/ Haldi – 1/4 tsp
Cilantro/ Kothmir – 2 tbsp, finely chopped
Thick tamarind pulp – 4 tbsp

Method:

1. Wash the eggplants and make four incisions, perpendicular cuts (an X) from the base of each eggplant, taking care the stem end is intact. Soak them in a bowl of cold water with 1tbsp salt to prevent discoloration. Keep aside. In a kadai pour oil to deep fry. When the oil is hot, drain the brinjals. Deep fry the brinjals for about 10-15 minutes until they are tender and well cooked. Gently remove them in a platter and keep aside.
2. Heat a small non-stick frying pan or a cast iron skillet at medium high heat and once it is hot, dry roast the desiccated coconut, sesame seeds, khus khus, peanuts, coriander seeds and cumin seeds, all one by one separately for just 2-3 minutes until they are a few shades darker and remove them into separate bowls. Do not burn the spices. Once cool, rub off the skins of the peanuts. Grind them all separately in a spice grinder to a fine powder or a smooth paste without adding any water and keep aside.
3. Heat a large non-stick frying pan or a cast iron skillet at medium high heat, and as soon as it warms up add the sliced onions. Let the onions sweat and keep stirring them until they are just starting to brown up. Once the onions are soft and lightly browned in color, remove them to a platter and keep aside. Once the dry roasted onions are cool, puree them in a grinder until smooth. Keep aside.
4. Heat 1/4 cup oil in a heavy non-stick pan at medium heat and as soon as it is warm, add the ingredients under the heading ‘for baghaar’ – cumin seeds, mustard seeds, curry leaves, nigella seeds and fenugreek seeds. Let the spices splutter for a minute. Then add the pureed roasted onion paste and immediately cover the pan with a lid for a minute. Lower the heat to medium low and shake the pan to thoroughly mix. This is done for the mixture to absorb all the flavour from the baghaar(tempering). Uncover, lower the heat and add ginger garlic paste and fry for 3-4 minutes. Add the desiccated coconut paste, sesame seed paste, khus-khus paste and peanut paste and stir fry it for 2-5 minutes or until you see that the mixture comes together and starts leaving oil. Add the red chilli powder, salt and turmeric. Mix well and keep stir frying it for a further 2 minutes on medium low heat. Once the raw odor of the peanuts, ginger-garlic paste and coconut is no longer coming, add the dry roasted coriander and cumin seed powder and chopped cilantro and mix well. Pour in 3 1/2 cups warm water and the tamarind pulp. Mix well. Add the fried brinjals and stir. Cover the lid and let cook on simmer for 20-25 minutes while stirring frequently, until the oil has all separated and the brinjals are soft and completely done in the masala gravy. Remove from heat and serve the curry along with Pulao or Biryani or Naan.

Suggested Accompaniments: Biryani, Roti, Paratha

Varieties of Eggplant

This goes to the Monthy Mingle event currently being hosted by Ruth. The theme this time is Sensational Sides, and Baghare Baingan fits perfectly for the title of the event.

Inshallah my next post is going to be the round up for RCI:Authentic Hyderabadi Cuisine which I will publish in just a few days from now. So keep checking on it. Take care of yourselves everyone and Have a good weekend!

Luv,
Mona